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Tutorial: N52te Analog Stick Mod + 6 Button Pedals Footrest (no buttons lost)  (Read 83408 times)

Offline roads

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Can do that. If I do teh mod again Ill do new pics as some faults were corrected and the pics are from the crappy Razer clone.
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Offline roads

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Added pictures at front as requested by Mist.
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Offline AP

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I loving it with the black controller bud, very cool. :D
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oh ya I have a on suite bathroom for my games room....... and a shower!

I used to be someone now I am just me ..... :D

Offline roads

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Yeah looks neat in black but yours had better quality the new controller pcbs are cheaper.
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Offline AP

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I love mine. works a treat. Just need my dam xim3 now :S
Quote from: He4DHuNt3r
oh ya I have a on suite bathroom for my games room....... and a shower!

I used to be someone now I am just me ..... :D

Offline Leto

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I had a bad day yesterday thinking your some smartass just not getting it, I am sorry about that.
I do dislike the hub idea as I am allergic to cable salad and additional devices but you are right the navs pcb could be a fit.  Its however no easy one and for sure only with dremeling work on the N52te, theres not much room in there. Might be better and easier to have the NAV housing and PCB dangling on the cable outside the N52te. The Nav should work without battery I guess? Keep in mind also, that to start the NAV you have to press the Sony button. At least its so on the PC so you will need to map that on the N52te somewhere.
About the Potentiometers in parallel I really thought it would work as two 5k resistors also do on the pcb, the double wiring of the DPST is a bit stupid realized that later but I had the 10 wire cable anyway. I am no EE after all and wish someone else would have made himself the work. I do this by collecting information on the net. In fact my tutorials are the few on the net, beginners can use and get somewhere. I am sure there are people who can do it better than me, they just dont do the things we need.

Not a problem, apology accepted.

I agree using a hub isnít a great solution either and Razer really @#$% up what could have been a nearly perfect device.

I was only giving ideas since you seem to be repeating this mod with improvements every time. I donít have a nav controller or a Xim3 yet to experiment on yet, so I'm not sure if I will attempt modding a PS3 controller or if i will do it the way you did with the auth. controller.

My electronics is pretty rusty but,
The problem with the analog sticks in parallel is that having resisters in parallel alter the circuit resistance.  Rt = (R1 x R2) / (R1 + R2)

So the overall resistance was changed from 10K to 5K between pins 1 & 3

(Pin 1) - 2.5k - (Pin 2) - 2.5k - (Pin 3) with both sticks at center.

(Pin 1) Ė 0.0k - (Pin 2) - 3.3k - (Pin 3) with one stick center and one full left or right.

So the dynamic range when using only one of the two sticks in parallel is now 0 to 3.3k instead of 0-10k

Iím not an expert on the workings of the Xbox controller, so I donít know how the xbox controller interprets this information.
So Iím not sure what to do about it yet.

How did the analog sticks react when they were wired in parallel?
Start off drifting about half speed in one direction right from the start?
Or would it still stay centered but didnít have full control in one or both directions?

Offline roads

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K get your math, there was no drift but maximal movement was halfed, you were hust walking and as I remember correctly not even in all directions so it was some bordering thing there. I dont remember honestly could be a drift also between xy would be logical. What about the cable length? It would be great to make it longer but I fear adding up too much resistance and having some speed loss walking  not even noticing it.
But you hit the bullseye the best would be a fully working controller. So we need to reduce the zero resistance from 10K to 5K in every direction when 0 but have a range of 5k to 10K when moving. Now how to achieve this??
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Offline roads

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are there potentiometers that move from 0 to 5k (5k are already there from the stick in the controller)  in two directions instead 5K to 10K. I think that woudl solve the problem? No desoldering would be needed of the controller stick and the mod could be made kindergarden playtime nationwide.
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Offline roads

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I think I have a good idea here. The potentiometers we use are 0-10000K but they start at 5000* not zero so they can be turned in both directions. If we replace them with two that start at 0 and both are turned by the joystick then we would have what we want. Turning 0 to begative is still 0 and turning more than 10000 does not matter either.
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Offline roads

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Here is a potentiometer open, is there anything we can do to this bitsch to make it report from 0-5000+ K?

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Offline Leto

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Actually, they are 10K between pins 1 and 3, the middle pin (pin 2) looks to be adjustable from around 0.7k to about 10k.

Seems like its being used as a voltage divider.
Replacing them with 20K pots  MIGHT work, but I think it might also give you full speed in one direction, and only about 1/3rd speed in the other direction.
Going to have to look into it more to make sure I understand how its working.

Offline roads

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with 20k pots you have 10k between pin 1 and 2 as 2 and 3. Above 5k the crosshair starts moving. In the deadzone there must be 0K on the second stick. No?
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Offline Leto

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No that's the problem with having two Potentiometers wire in parallel.

If you measure each Potentiometer individually.
they will each read:
(1) -5k- (2) -5k- (3)

But when they are wired together.
(1) -5k- (2) -5k- (3)
(1) -5k- (2) -5k- (3)

With pins (1,1) & (2,2) & (3,3) soldered together.

It will read actually only 2.5k between (1) and (2) / (2) and (3). (when the sticks are both centered)

(1)          (2)          (3)
  |  -2.5k-  |  -2.5k-  |
(1)          (2)          (3)

I don't think the actual resistance is the big problem. I'm assuming the Xbox controller is just looking at it as a variable voltage divider. ( looking for the voltage drop from pin 1 & 2 to be 50% of the total voltage drop of between 1 & 3. to read stick center)
The problem is getting the dynamic range to be large enough & balanced enough to get full speed in both directions.

I will look into it after work today. But its starting to seem like it will be too much of a pain in the @#$% to make both sticks work correctly.

Offline AP

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I know your both speaking english but I dont understand a word of it :D

If it anything I need to know about roads ? Ie is this gona effect mine ??
Quote from: He4DHuNt3r
oh ya I have a on suite bathroom for my games room....... and a shower!

I used to be someone now I am just me ..... :D

Offline roads

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Ah OK I see. I got my XIM3 and I don't know your Setup, but for me I want the controller as far away as possible. I was really astonished but the cables are a mess, no really there are too many of them (takes too long to number them). The main thing making a big knot on the whole thing is the wire from  the Mixamp or whatever to the controller. So getting the XIM3, the controller, the Mixamp  away from the sofa is important imo. What I want to say I cant really pick up the controller because of the mic cable. So the parallel sticks are not so important really. It would just make it easier for people to build.

How long do you think the cable from the N52te to the controller can be until it makes some difference? Can it be 2 or even 3 meters?
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