Tut: Modded N52te, 2016 Edition

[THE-MARAVINGY]

All my parts have arrived, now onto the build pics to follow instead of going for black in the print i went for blue looks nice too.
Any updates on the joystick housing....

[ScopeLoc]

Hi I have a question about the frame to be printed at I.materialize. the lower part of the frame to be more specific. I sent the files as combine and size was good and everything, after placing the order I got an email saying parts of the wall was to thin for printing. in the model they show it seems that most of the areas red are where the frame snaps in place " the relief for the prong to hold it" but other area is next to where the cherry pins are. Did anyone else get this email? and if so any help in fixxing the problem would be great. Thank You.

Update:    it seems to be the areas where the diods set at.

[ScopeLoc]

Is it possible for you to redo the design and just cut the groove out all the way?

[THE-MARAVINGY]

Hi I have a question about the frame to be printed at I.materialize. the lower part of the frame to be more specific. I sent the files as combine and size was good and everything, after placing the order I got an email saying parts of the wall was to thin for printing. in the model they show it seems that most of the areas red are where the frame snaps in place " the relief for the prong to hold it" but other area is next to where the cherry pins are. Did anyone else get this email? and if so any help in fixxing the problem would be great. Thank You.

Update:    it seems to be the areas where the diods set at.

no probs here an no emails, popped all my cherries in an all fine haven't completed it yet just dry runs no soldering yet its on my list to do.

[ScopeLoc]

Did you order as combined or separately. Also did you use I.materailize?

[W11cE]

What material did you use for the order? With polyamide there has not been any problems. Yes, I saw also that there are some spots where the thickness is quite low, but it still prints just nice.

Joystick part is ready, but I am still not completely satisfied with the model. It goes to its place, but you need to force it a little. Maybe I have to just say its good enough and write the tutorial.

[ScopeLoc]

Hi the email said that some of the spots were less than 0.8mm and it had to be more by the regulations... But now I got an email saying that they sent it to printing so I am not sure what went on.... I chose polyamide dyed red. So unless color matters there should be no diff.  Any way I will wait to see what I get.   Thanks for your help

[THE-MARAVINGY]

Did you order as combined or separately. Also did you use I.materailize?

Sorry late reply.
Yes and Yes, polyamide and colour blue.

@ W11cE
No worries you crack on i can wait no need to rush perfection, i'm sure i can kibosh something in its place until you are ready.

[THE-MARAVINGY]

Mine is all built, made a few mistakes along the way like i miss understood which way the cathode was for led's.

The pic you have displayed says cathode to the right which i thought was right side looking as the pic wrong on my part right side from top down doh had to de-solder them all an re-do.

The i discovered a non working key had spares swapped it still not working, an then there it is one of those little orange/black thingys wrong way round popped it out switched it round all good now.

One thing i noticed is the back gets quite hot now does yours i just don't remember it getting that warm....

Joystick what a pita that was, got it all in an was off centre took me all day to figure out it was cause i had put the VCC pins from stick in to teensy V in 3.6v to 6v and not in the V 3.3v....

Stick button mine seems to be permanently on which i think is my stick so will ignore that for now not needed...

How are you connecting to Xim are you using a powered usb hub, i have got it working using a hub but for some reason my Xim will not connect via BT when hub is in with or without power makes no difference, had it working briefly but went into game and it lost connection and could not get it back even the pairing any help on this would be appreciated...

For stick mounting i used this  http://www.shapeways.com/product/62H9B2TMV/thumb-stick-mount-for-suncom-sfs?optionId=60407819

Which works nicely just need to cut away all the little bits that held the d-pad in place and widen the hole for stick then drill 4 small holes to match the pillars on the holder, its tight but got it all inside including the teensy just remember to flash it before closing it up doh

[ScopeLoc]

Thanks for the post. I will try the stick holder if I have to change mine for any reason.

[ScopeLoc]

Hey I have a question.  I am not putting lights on my board. Will i still need the doors and resistors?

[ScopeLoc]

Diods not doors.

[THE-MARAVINGY]

Not sure on that does say if you don't need them but i have no idea what a diode does i'm sure W11cE will chime in when he is around.

[ScopeLoc]

Well I know they stop the current from back flowing. If I don't need them then I will not put them however I do have them already so I may do it in case I want to add lights later.

[W11cE]

Yes, you need the diodes. If you are not installing lights, then you don't need resistors.