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Messages - Aiken_Drum

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As an aside, we encounter constant problems where people are (quite understandably) using the USB cable that Sony provides to charge the DS4.  Unfortunately, while this is technically a data cable and should work fine with XIM4, it is actually of embarrassingly low quality and really cannot serve to do much more than charge the controller.  It does not stand up to wear and tear at all.

Their supplied cable is usually okay for regular use, since intermittent signal loss with charging will only slow down the charging a little, but when we actually need the DS4 to talk to us over that cable, it gets messier.  If you've been using that cable, it may be that it's related to the problem.  Even if it isn't, we strongly recommend using a higher-quality USB data cable in its place, since it's such a common source of issues.

the xim manager still seems to detect me pushing buttons on the gamepad and mouse, just no response from the actual playstation.

Ah, so the manager still displays both "[C] L1 -> Fire" for the native controller and "[M] Left -> Fire" for the mouse, then, for example?  Both devices still register their inputs visibly in the manager?

I have tried to unplug and replug the xim but the playstation still remains frozen.

Confirming terminology here: to you, "frozen" means unresponsive to input, or literally frozen on a single frame of video, nothing even updating?  Like, if there's a game on-screen, does the character still sit there breathing in and out and whatever other idle activity it would do without input, or has it literally frozen and stopped moving?

When frozen, if you disconnect the XIM4 from the PS4, and also disconnect the DS4 from the XIM4, then hit PS to wake up the DS4 wirelessly, does anything start working again?

We used to have a bug in the eldest firmware that would lose pairing occasionally, I think.  Are you using the latest versions of both the firmware and the manager?  If you select ABOUT from the corner menu in XIM4 Manager, it will show you both versions.  You want at least 20141114 for both, or later if you are willing to try out the recent beta version.  Both versions should be the same, by the way.  If they don't match, you've probably installed the manager, but not the firmware, which is a separate download.

(See the Downloads link in my signature.)

You are using the Beta firmware with the retail Manager? That should never work.

Does the firmware itself refuse to talk to old managers?  From what you said elsewhere, I only had the impression that new managers refused to talk to old firmware.

Can you either draw a diagram or specify all of your connections?  This is difficult to help you with unless I have a clear idea of what's connected to what and where the buzzing might be coming from.

For clarity's sake, I'm going to lock this thread and we'll continue in the other one.


Which version of the firmware are you running?  The stable 20141114 build or the beta 20150212 build?

Can you check+report the following values on Hip and ADS?

Mouse -> Sensitivity
Mouse -> Advanced -> YXRatio

And is the ballistics curve in Mouse -> Advanced what you would expect, that being either one you created or one that should default to a simple diagonal line from lower-left to upper-right?

If you unplug and replug the XIM from the PS4, is that sufficient, or do you really have to power cycle the whole PS4?

I'm double-checking because we have had people report needing total resets with XB1, which sometimes shuts down a USB port for some reason, but never before with PS4.

Starting with obvious questions:

The checkbox to swap left and right sticks didn't get checked, did it?

What is the DPI of your mouse?

What are the Hip and ADS Sensitivty values in XIM4 Manager?  Also YXRatio and Boost, just in case.

Is the Hip -> Mouse -> Advanced -> Ballistics curve correct?  It should be a diagonal line from 0 to 100%, by default.

Is it set to Hip -> Mouse -> Advanced -> [Use Hip Translator]?  If not, does it work to switch it to [Use ADS Translator]?  Perhaps there's a bug.

What is the Joystick dead zone value?  This actually shouldn't matter, but I'm curious.

Hm, not sure what else...

Usually this is caused by what's called a ground loop.  Effectively, it's caused by a literal loop in your powered devices.  If you sketch out a simple diagram of your audio setup+connections, you can usually find the place where you've created a loop.  If you find one, you can use what's called a "ground loop isolator" to break the loop.  I think you can get these from Amazon for a few bucks each, maybe more.

I'm not well-versed in the exact details, so I'd simply suggest going to google and reading up on ground loops, as I would hate to give you incorrect details.  I guarantee you'll find plenty of material, especially on audio- and gaming-related forums.  :)

Checking in...

Did your RMA move forward after you responded to Nicole's question?

You're welcome, and sorry it wasn't better news.  I'm surprised Newegg would sell you a knockoff.  That page certainly is advertising a genuine controller, based on the pictures of the box and the category of Microsoft.  Is it possible you bought a cheaper option from that page, from the "Other buying options" column?  Those are usually third-party resellers and will, much of the time, sell you a cheap knockoff.

I'm sorry, but that does appear to be a third-party/knockoff controller, yes.  :-\

- No X on the Guide
- No quick disconnect
- No label
- Regular cross-head screws rather than tamper-proof torx screws

If you bought your controller from Newegg directly, I would expect the controller to be genuine, but if you bought from one of Newegg's third-party resellers, then it is less likely.

Things to look for:

There should be an extra inline connector in the cable that allows for you to kick the cable by accident without breaking the port on the console.  It simply disconnects the two halves of the cable instead.

There should be a stylized X logo on the Guide button.  Most knockoffs have a solid button or have some other emblem.

If you have to move the cable into a certain position on port C in order to get power from the console to the XIM4, then that does sound like your port is damaged or defective.

I can't authorize a return/exchange, as that is OBsIV's call alone.  However, I do believe OBsIV will suggest starting an RMA.  Can you confirm the following?

- The power loss is caused/fixed by wiggling the connector in port C.
- The power loss is entire, e.g. the XIM4 itself has no power and no LEDs.

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