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Topics - Nyarlathotep

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Commander / SandhawC Setup Photos
« on: 05:01 PM - 01/09/16 »

Commander / Ability to Change Enable/Disable Key
« on: 08:40 PM - 12/02/15 »
Would it be possible to add the option of changing the enable/disable key (from PAUSE)? I would like to use SandhawC with my tablet when I travel; a simple USB numeric keypad would be preferable to using a full keyboard or having to use the Windows "osk" function in order to have the PAUSE key. Thanks in advance.

General Discussion / Excellent Headphone Amp for the Price
« on: 09:46 PM - 03/21/15 »
I just purchased the Live Wire HA204 from Guitar Center (currently on sale for $49.99). It has a very clean sound.

I bought mine for other purposes in addition to gaming (the "ALT 3-4" outputs of my Mackie 1202-VLZ3 are connected to its balanced inputs), but I can confirm that it works well with a Turtle Beach DSS (connected to its front unbalanced TRS input) and the voice output of an Xbox One chat adaptor (connected to its rear balanced inputs).

For those with more "elaborate" audio set-ups, this may be of help. This was my audio set-up (before enhancements):

Audio Technica AT803 lavalier microphone > MIC 1 of Mackie mixer

ATH-AD700 headphones > headphone jack of Mackie mixer

Turtle Beach Ear Force DSS > LINE IN 5-6 of Mackie mixer

XIM4 > Xbox One controller > Xbox One Stereo Headset Adapter > StarTech MUYHSMFF headset adapter > LINE IN 7-8 of a Mackie mixer

AUX 1 SEND (for microphone output) of Mackie mixer > StarTech MUYHSMFF headset adapter > Xbox One Stereo Headset Adapter

With that set-up alone (which is almost the same as what I used with the XIM3 and Xbox 360), I got terrible hum/static from the Xbox One Stereo Headset Adapter. A quick search of the forums indicated that this is a common problem when using the Xbox One controller via USB instead of wirelessly. Someone noted that he fixed it using a ground loop isolator, so I went to RadioShack and picked one up (catalog 270-0054).

With only the chat output connected via the ground loop isolator, the hum/static was gone. I soon as I plugged the AUX 1 output (to send a mic signal) to the chat adapter, the static/hum reappeared. As an experiment, connected one channel of the isolator to the chat output of the headset adapter, and connected the other channel to the AUX 1 output of the mixer and the input of the headset adapter... all noise disappeared. After confirming that, I went back to RadioShack and picked up a second ground loop isolator, and after connecting it, I was noise-free. Here is my set-up after connecting both isolators:

Audio Technica AT803 lavalier microphone > MIC 1 of Mackie mixer

ATH-AD700 headphones > headphone jack of Mackie mixer

Turtle Beach Ear Force DSS > LINE IN 5-6 of Mackie mixer

XIM4 > Xbox One controller > Xbox One Stereo Headset Adapter > StarTech MUYHSMFF headset adapter > RadioShack Ground-Loop Isolator > LINE IN 7-8 of Mackie mixer

AUX 1 SEND (for microphone output) of Mackie mixer > 1/4"-to-double-RCA adapter > RadioShack Ground-Loop Isolator > StarTech MUYHSMFF headset adapter > Xbox One Stereo Headset Adapter > Xbox One controller > XIM4

The ground-loop isolators include RCA-to-3.5mm adapters, which are used to connect to the headphone and microphone jacks of the StarTech headset adapter.

I have more cables on my desk than I would like, but it works. While playing Halo 2 multiplayer today, someone asked why I sounded like a radio announcer. He confirmed that the sound from my "microphone" was crystal-clear. :)

I can finally share everything between my Xbox 360 and PS3 without unplugging/reconnecting wires:

Not shown in the diagram are the three double 1/4" stereo adapters (connected to LINE 7, LINE 8, and AUX SEND) necessary to have simultaneous chat and microphone connections for both consoles. Note that an M-Audio Fast Track Pro is also connected to the mixer, but that is not used for gaming purposes.

At first, no keyboard ("keystick" mode on the Panther XL) was indicated on the XIM3 using the Plugable USB switch; that was quickly remedied using a 5V PSP charger.

In order to connect a PC, an Xbox 360, and a PS3 to my monitor, I ordered one of these. Not only does it let me switch between those devices (and my Android tablet, which I plug into the front), it allows my Turtle Beach Ear Force DSS 7.1 to be shared with all of those devices as well. In addition, I have the coaxial digital output connected to an old Sony receiver, which I use when I'm not wearing headphones.

The switch also includes a 3.5mm stereo analog audio output; all three outputs can be used simultaneously.

Most people purchase that switch in order to use HDMI devices with older receivers that lack HDMI inputs.

Playstation / Audio Adapter for Wired Headset Use
« on: 05:44 PM - 01/09/12 »
This one is cheap, tiny (it doesn't block the adjacent USB port), and works perfectly (it shows up under Accessories as "Generic USB Audio Device").

I have a lapel microphone connected to the mic jack. The headphone output is connected to my mixer, which enables me to can control the volume of other people's voices. Keep in mind that the headphone jack only sends voices; game sounds still require something such as the Turtle Beach Ear Force DSS 7.1.

This device should yield far better results than the crappy Bluetooth headsets that some players use.

Release Candidates / Halo Reach Turning Speed
« on: 02:51 PM - 06/14/11 »
I figured I would post this here since I'm using the smart translator included with the latest beta...

I've been playing Halo Reach online for the past few days; before that I only played online (with an Xbox controller) for a total of three days or so about six months ago. While I'm enjoying it for the most part, the one thing that bothers me is the turning speed. With Call of Duty Black Ops, turns of 180 degrees (or even more) are easily made, so getting shot in the back can be quickly dealt with, and usually to the great surprise of the enemy. With Halo Reach that seems to not be the case.

I'm using a sensitivity of 150, which I decided on after much experimentation. I just ran the XIM Sensitivity Calculator, and it yielded 154.99 (versus 80 for Black Ops), which is pretty close to what I came up with, but it seems any higher than 150 yields jerkiness. In case "Yikes!" comes to mind for my sensitivity, keep in mind that a Logitech MX518 used as a trackball requires higher sensitivity numbers to achieve the same results.

I read a few threads on Halo Reach and previous Halo games, and it appears this is something I just have to deal with. Am I correct in this, or does anyone have any ideas/suggestions? Thanks in advance.

For the fellow H. P. Lovecraft fans, here are my settings for Call of Cthulhu Dark Corners of the Earth:

Primary Mouse Settings
Translator: Smart Advanced
Game: Reach
Sensitivity: 35.00
Acceleration: -0.40
Y-X Ratio: 1.00
Smoothness: 40
Boost: 0

Secondary Mouse Settings
Translator: Smart Advanced
Game: Reach
Sensitivity: 10.00
Acceleration: -0.40
Y-X Ratio: 1.00
Smoothness: 40
Boost: 0
Delay: Immediate (I may change this)

Both in-game sensitivities are set at 10.

My settings are for a Logitech MX518 (at 1800 dpi) being used as a trackball in a Panther XL. Headshots are much easier than I remember...

Call of Cthulhu Dark Corners of the Earth is an original Xbox game, but it is still the only one of its kind.

When Cthulhu is played on a 360, there is no sound until the main menu, but everything else works fine.

General Discussion / My Own Version of a "Mixamp"
« on: 06:22 PM - 04/22/11 »
Due to the crappy sound of the hotel TV I was using last week while on a work trip, I decided to order the Turtle Beach Ear Force DSS 7.1, a "Headset Buddy" (used to connect a PC headset to an Xbox 360 wired controller), and a Zalman ZM-MIC1 microphone (all shipped to the hotel from Amazon). I thought the virtual 7.1 created by the DSS was pretty amazing through my Audio-Technica ATH-M50 headphones (I use them for monitoring recordings and music listening).

After a few days back at home and dealing with multiple cables running across the floor of my living room, I decided to move my Xbox 360 upstairs to the guest bedroom and use my ViewSonic 24" monitor instead of a TV (I spent many nights years ago with PC games in that room).

In order to describe the sound setup for my gaming system, using a diagram would be much easier (updated 4 April 2011):

Notice that the microphone is not the Zalman... that one stopped working after only a few days, so I ordered the ATR3350.

Yes, this setup is a bit of overkill, but the Mackie mixer sits on my desk anyway (for recording purposes; my computer is also connected to it). I can easily adjust all sound volumes, including my voice volume in chat, the volume of other players, and the game sound itself. And since my headphones are closed-back, I have to dial in a bit of my own voice in order to hear myself.

The only issue I have with this setup is that there is a bit of "whine" when chat from other players is engaged; I read another thread that discussed that issue when using certain wired Xbox 360 controllers (mine is a "genuine" one but old). I could set the Xbox to output game chat through "speakers," but that makes other players sound as though they are talking in a cave (using the DSS).

I could add to the overkill of this setup by using my Audio-Technica AT4040 microphone, but the pop filter for it would cover part of my screen. :)

I think my wife really likes the new setup, not because of the sound, but because she can't hear it at all and that she has more use of the TV downstairs.

XIM 2 Discussions / Joystick/Trackball Setup
« on: 02:13 PM - 02/27/11 »

The joystick is a CH Fighterstick (USB); the trackball is a Kensington Expert Mouse, and they are attached (with Velcro) to a shelf from Lowe's that serves as a lapboard . When I started playing FPSs on a PC back in 1998, I first used a MadCatz Panther XL, but got tired of it breaking and moved to the CH Fighterstick + Kensington Turbo Mouse (the old non-optical version of the trackball) combination. I probably haven't used the Fighterstick since I started playing the original Xbox in 2005 (the Turbo Mouse broke).

I just received the XIM360 last week. Since it and the Expert Mouse arrived (and after cleaning the dust off the Fighterstick), I've spent lots of time playing Combat Training in Call of Duty Black Ops (and Halo Reach a bit) and tweaking the settings. It almost feels like playing on a PC again... I can now turn >180 degrees in an instant.

I've found that the G11 + low-power scope + steady aim can be a deadly combination when used with a trackball (or mouse)... getting more kills than deaths once again is a great thing.

The XIM360 (with a laptop) should tide me over until support for my joystick is added to the XIM3.

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